An artistic perspective of the Revell BR 41 H0 model locomotive

This is an attempt to present the Revell BR 41 H0 scale model locomotive in a photo created with an artistic touch. To read more about this loco, see the full post here.

Revell BR 50

One of the most successful classes of German steam locomotives is/was the BR 50. Designed to haul goods trains, the BR 50 locos were built as standard locomotives (Einheitsdampflokomotive) between 1939 and 1948 by almost all major locomotive factories. A total of 3164 pieces were produced for the Deutsche Reichsbahn and they received IDs between 50 001 and 50 3171. One of the important advantages of the BR 50 design was the low axle load (15.2 t), which even permitted the use on branch lines with light track beds. The Br 50’s wheel configuration is 2-10-0 and total weight is 86.9 t. The locos were originally fitted with Wagner smoke deflectors but some of them later received Witte smoke deflectors. They were coupled to tenders of type 2'2' T 26 or 2'2' T 30.

The BR 50 locos were part of the war preparation effort and the ones that were built later were called provisional war locomotives (Übergangskriegslokomotiven) and classified as 50 ÜK. Also, class 52 (BR 52) was derived from BR 50 by omitting all possible components, making the locomotives as cheap to produce as possible. Some BR 50 tenders were fitted with a front shield, to protect the crew and some were also equipped with a driver’s cab, thus reducing the volume of carried coal.

After the war a large number of BR 50 locomotives were taken over by the Deutsche Reichsbahn (2159) and together with class 44 they took care of most of the goods hauling operations. About 1000 of them had boilers made of ST 47 K steel, which was not very resistant to ageing, so many of these locomotives were given the boilers of scrapped BR 52s. Most BR 50 locomotives were retired up to 1977. A few remained in service until 1989. Towards the end of their service they were used for pulling both goods and passenger trains.

Facts:

ID: BR 50 519

Wheel arrangement: 2-10-0

Built: 1939-1948

Builder: Henschel & Sohn/Hohenzollern/Krupp/BMAG/etc.

Top speed: 80 km/h (both directions)

Power: 1195 kW

Gauge: Standard (1435 mm)

Length: 22.94 m

Weight: 86.9 t

Axle load: 15.2 t

Couped wheel diamater: 1400 mm

Driving wheel diamater: 1400 mm

Leading wheel diameter: 850 mm

A few days ago I assembled Revell's BR 50 static steam locomotive, which contains a beautiful H0 scale model of the famous original locomotive. The kit was produced in 2002 and has item number 02165. It wasn't hard to assemble, the 41-step instructions were pretty clear and contained enough detail, but it required a lot of work, especially the painting of the parts. It took me about 10 days and a total of over 30 hours of work to complete the locomotive. Most of the time was spent on painting and repainting the parts (some of them require two layers of paint to look really nice and the paints need to dry for 4 to 6 hours before a second layer can be applied). Some spots require a steady and precise hand, to paint adjacent areas of the same part with different colors. In contrast with Revell's Big Boy steam locomotive that I assembled over a year ago, this kit contained some water slide decals that were surprisingly easy to apply. They adhered to the plastic with ease and did not dry off at all.

Used colors (in order of importance):

- 302 - black, silky-matt (used extensively)

- 330 - fiery red, silky-matt (used extensively)

- 91 - iron, metalic (used moderately)

- 301 - white, silky-matt (used only for a few surfaces)

- 93 - brass, metalic (used only for the bell in the cab)

- 87 - eart brown, matt (used only on the tracks)

- 83 - rust, matt (used only on the tracks)

Links:

Revell's official website

BR 50 @ Wikipedia

Revell #02164 - BR 01150 steam locomotive

Revell #02160 - BR 41242 steam locomotive

Revell #02170 - BR 43001 steam locomotive

Revell #02165 - UP X4006 "Big Boy" steam locomotive

Revell BR 41

Revell's item no. 02160 is a beautiful H0 (1:87) scale model of the German BR 41 goods locomotive.

The real BR 41 has an interesting history. After 1930 the German Royal Railways Deutsche Reichsbahn-Gesellschaft (DRG) was looking for a new, fast goods locomotive. In 1934 the Berliner Machinenbau (BMAG, previously named Luis Schwartzkopff) submitted a design of a 2-8-2 (1'D) steam locomotive created by Friedrick Wilhelm Eckhardt. The design was accepted and BMAG was asked to produce two prototypes.

The two prototypes, BR 41 001 and BR 41 002 were delivered in 1937. DRG found that the locomotives were powerful, fast, quiet and that they accelerated very well, so in 1938 the newly renamed Deutsche Reichsbahn (DRB) ordered the massive production of such locomotives. They had to be built according to the locomotive standardization principle, so that they could be easily maintained and repaired. All the major German locomotive builders started producing the BR 41, including BMAG, Borsig, Henschel & Sohn, Krauss-Maffei, Krupp, Orenstein & Koppel, Machinenfabrik Esslingen, Arnold Jung Lokomotivfabrik, Schichau, etc.

Between 1938 and 1941 a total of 366 BR 41 steam locomotives wre constructed. They were not expensive. In order to achieve this, some modifications were applied to the original design. Like some of the other types of BR locomotives, they possessed 20-bar boliers made of St 47 K and some other aging steel, which soon started to present severe problems. So, from 1941, the operating boiler pressure was reduced to 16 bar, but even so, boiler damage could not be prevented.

Altough the axle load could be easily switched between 18t and 20t with the help of some bolts, they were always used with the 18t setting.

In 1941 the production of BR 41 locomotives was completely canceled because of the war. After WW II, 216 locomotives of this type remained in West Germany and 122 in East Germany, 22 in Poland, 1 in Czechoslovakia and 5 in Russia. Between 1957 and 1961 107 engines were repaired and modified, the most important change being the installation of a fully weldedboiler. 40 of them were converted to burning oil and from 1968 they were renamed to class 042.

Facts:

ID: BR 41 242

Wheel arrangement: 2-8-2

Built: 1937-1941

Builder: BMAG, Borsig, Henschel & Sohn, Krauss-Maffei, Krupp, Orenstein & Koppel, Machinenfabrik Esslingen, Arnold Jung Lokomotivfabrik, Schichau

Top speed: 90 km/h (50 km/h backward)

Power: 1397 kW

Gauge: Standard (1435 mm)

Length: 23.905 m

Driving wheel diameter: 1600 mm

Leading wheen diameter: 1000 mm

Trailing wheel diamater: 1200 mm

Links:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DRG_Class_41

http://www.revell.com

Revell BR 43

Beginning with 1925 the Deutsche Reichsbahn started building unified, standardized locomotives. This meant that all the locomotives of the same class had exactly the same building parts, so if they broke down, they could easily be repaired anywhere throughout the country because all locomotive repair workshops had the exact same parts.

The first standard class built according to this principle was BR 01, which was an express locomotive. The second standard class was BR 43, a type of steam locomotive designed to pull heavy goods trains. Another class, BR 44, was built for the same purpose, but, opposed to BR 43, it was a three-cylinder design. The BR 43 proved to be more economical, but the BR 44 could operate at higher speeds, so only a total of 35 locomotives of type BR 43 were built. These were assembled between 1926 and 1928 by Henschel & Sohn and Schwartzkopff.

The BR 43 was a very strong locomotive. In fact BR 43 013 holds the record of being the German locomotive that pulled the heaviest train ever (5000 t). In 1960 the few remaining BR 43 class steam locomotives were modernized and fitted with more powerful boilers, so they could pull loads over twice as heavy as intended in the original design. However this quickly lead to frame damage and by 1968 they were all retired.

BR 43 001, seen in this beautiful H0 scale model, is a museum piece and can currently be found in the Saxon Railway Museum in Chemnitz. The model was manufactured by Revell and has item number 2170.

Facts:

ID: BR 43 001

Wheel arrangement: 2-10-0

Built: 1927

Builder: Henschel & Sohn

Top speed: 70 km/h

Power: 1383 kW

Gauge: Standard (1435 mm)

Driving wheel diameter: 1400 mm

Leading wheel diameter: 850 mm

Location: Chemnitz (Saxon Railway Museum)

Links:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DRG_Class_43

http://www.revell.com/

Revell BR 01

Not very long ago a friend from Germany who is into railroad modeling was kind enough to send me some of his static European steam locomotives that he did not need in his collection anymore because these days he only collects American models. One of the most beautiful H0 (1:87) scale static models in the package was Revell's item no. 2164, the Baureihe 01 express locomotive with ID 01 150. It is a very old Revell steam locomotive, manufactured back in 1983. The more recent equivalent Revell item is 02172, which is the same BR 01 express steam locomotive.

The DRG BR 01 was the first standardized steam locomotive built after the unification of the German railay system. A total of 231 such locos were built between 1926 and 1938 by important steam locomotive builders, such as Henschel & Sohn, Hohenzollern, Krupp and BMAG in five batches, each with minor upgrades: 01 001–010 (1926), 01 112–076 (1927–28), 01 077–101 (1930–31), 01 102–190 (1934–1936), 01 191–232 (1937–1938). They were destined to pull express passenger trains and their wheel arrangement was the Pacific type (4-6-2). The original top speed of the BR 01 locos was 120 km/h, but it was increased to 130 km/h beginning from BR 01 102.

BR 01 150 was built as part of the fourth batch, with Witte smoke deflectors. Today it is a DB museum piece. In 2005 it was severely damaged by a fire at Nuremberg and is awaiting its restoration.

Facts:

ID: BR 01 150

Wheel arrangement: 4-6-2 (Pacific)

Built: 1934-1936

Builder: Henschel & Sohn/Hohenzollern/Krupp/BMAG

Top speed: 130 km/h (50 km/h backward)

Power: 1648 kW

Gauge: Standard (1435 mm)

Length: 23.94 m

Couped wheel diamater: 2000 mm

Driving wheel diamater: 2000 mm

Leading wheel diameter: 1000 mm

Trailing wheel diameter: 1250 mm

Location: DB museum

Links:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DRG_Class_01

http://www.revell.com/

Revell Big Boy Steam Locomotive - The Union Pacific #4006

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Revell's H0 scale Big Boy locomotive, the Union Pacific #4006 steam locomotive is finished. Enjoy the pictures!

Revell Big Boy Steam Locomotive - Almost Finished...

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The Revell Big Boy steam locomotive is practically finished. The final paint touch ups on the last parts are drying right now...

A few more things worth knowing: after a few days from applying, the decals dried and came off. So I had to find a solution to make them stay on the model. Specialists recommend using decal settling solutions. But I did not know that then and obviously I had none at my disposal, so I re-applied them onto the model using a thin layer of simple paper glue. Unlike the Revell glue, it did not damage the decals and since then they are settled on the model perfectly. The paper glue became shiny at the edges of the decals after drying, so I had to repaint those parts with a very thin brush.

I also managed to fix the first two pairs of wheels located at the beginning of the tender. They were not aligned with the rest of the tender wheels because when I had to take them down and put them back (because of the wrong assembling instructions), I could not glue everything perfectly in the place. But now I used a small rasp to make the axis holding the 4 wheels on the tender thinner and so the wheels became perfectly aligned with the others.

There is one more thing that the model would need: a thin layer of transparent, matte coating which would cover the decals and protect the whole model. But for that I need either an airbrush (which I don't have) or a transparent, matte varnish spray (which I can't find in any shop, not even online).

The pictures are coming soon...

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Revell Big Boy Steam Locomotive - Painting, Assembling and Applying Decals

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The miniature Big Boy locomotive model is almost finished. It took a lot more time and energy to put it together than I expected. I spent probably around 25 hours painting the parts, assembling them and applying the waterslide decals. Also, a lot of time was needed for the paint and glue to dry before I could go from one step to another. During the process I encountered many difficulties, so I thought I'd share my experiences as it may help future modelers to build this model better.

First, let's see some general guidelines:

A. Many of the components fit together tightly and remain together even without glue. If this is the case, don't try to pull them apart by force in order to add glue. You'll most likely end up breaking something.

B. Allow the paint to dry well. You should leave components dry for around 4 hours before trying to put them together or repaint them. Sometimes you need to paint the same surface twice because the first layer of paint doesn't cover it perfectly. For this model you will need paints 8, 9, 75, 86, 91, 92, 99 and 330. they come in 14 ml recipients. For most of the colors 14 ml will be more than enough, but try not to waste number 8 (black). I ran completely out of black by the time the whole locomotive was painted, I barely had enough for the last parts. On the other hand you will need extremely little of paint number 92 and 330. In fact, you need so little of number 92 that you can very well do without it. Only the locomotive bell needs to be painted in this color (copper). You can use number 99 instead (aluminium). In case of many parts you need to apply 2 or 3 different paints (for example all wheels need to be painted with 8, 91 and 99). Be careful not to paint with one color over the other. you'll need a very smooth, thin brush. If you accidentally paint with one color over the other, just let it dry (for at least 4 hours) and after that repaint with the original color. It's better to paint several parts with the same color, let them dry and then paint all of them with the next color. This way you'll also spare some paint because every time you open the recipient, paint is wasted on the recipient's cap and it also dries out faster.

C. Check all steps at least twice before assembling components together. Also watch out for mistakes in the instructions. Unfortunately it does contain mistakes. I had to repeat one of the last steps several times because of such a mistake and this also lead to some damage of the model. Also beware that not everything is explained fully in the instructions.

D. Apply the waterslide decals over the dry paint (but let the paint dry well, preferably for 24 hours before applying decals over it). Be careful with the decals, they are very fragile. Practice applying the decals on some scrap plastic before doing the real thing. Luckily you have many unneeded decals in the kit, you can use some of these for practice. It's very hard to apply the smallest decals. I did not apply them. Also be careful with the ones that need to be put on uneven surfaces. Sometimes it's close to impossible to apply them. If you move them around too much, they won't adhere (stick) well enough. Do not try to add glue to the decals. I tried it and practically the decal melts when it comes into contact with glue. Soak the decals in warm water for 20-25 seconds, then move them with your finger to the target location on the model. You can move them around a bit while wet. Dry with paper handkerchieves or blotting paper. If you don't get it right, re-wet them quickly and move them with your finger.

Step-by-step advice and warning:

Step 1: Paint the horn with color F before the rest of part 1. This way it's not a problem if your brush accidentally paints outside the target area, you can repaint over it with the desired color later. Be careful when you stick parts 1 and 2 together not to break the thin edges of part 1. I did it by mistake. Apply glue before attempting to fit them together or don't apply glue at all (they fit together tightly anyway and they will hold together without glue). The side edges of part 1 need to be painted with color A (a very thin line). I did that at the end (before step 41) and it was fine.

Step 2: Be careful when you paint the boiler with color G. you'll need a thin brush and a steady hand.

Step 3: It's hard to see how you put the parts together here. Make sure you have enough light.

Step 5: You can delay this until before step 41 in order not to break part 4 during future maneuvers.

Step 7: Be patient with the wheels. You'll need a lot of time before they dry 3 times (they need to be painted with color A, B and E).

Step 8: Inserting component 24's pins into the holes on the wheels can be really difficult. Make sure you don't break anything. Don't paint the pins of component 24, paint will make the pins thicker and harder to insert.

Step 9: It's kind of hard to figure out which parts of component 19 need to be painted in color A and which parts need B. Just establish how you want it and use the same pattern for future similar components.

Step 10: Again, inserting the pin can be difficult.

Step 14: I recommend applying the appropriate decal (1 or 16) over component 41 before putting component 9 into its final place (glued into component 13). Applying the decal later is close to impossible (I did not succeed).

Step 15: Same as step 7.

Step 16: Same as step 8.

Step 17: Similar to step 9.

Step 19: Same as steps 8 and 16.

Step 20: Similar to steps 9 and 17.

Step 22: I recommend that you finish painting the main part of the locomotive (component 1) entirely before step 22.

Step 23: Don't force components 17 and 52 into their final position. Be gentle. I broke one of them.

Step 30: Don't paint the ends of the bars (components 13, 14 and 50). Don't force anything, insert them into component 11 firmly but gently.

Step 31: It's probably a good idea to paint the whole tender (component 30) in black (color B) before step 32.

Step 34: Make sure you get component 31 into it's position perfectly. It will be hard to move later.

Step 36: Be careful when you paint the small parts of components 37 and 63 with color A, not to paint over the rest of it. Paint the most of them with color B first, allow to dry, then paint the small parts with B. Glue components 35, 37 and 63 together tightly.

Step 37: Trust the drawing in this step. Steps 36 and 37 show the parts assembled correctly.

Step 38: The instructions are wrong! The position of the components in the drawing is impossible to accomplish if you did steps 36 and 37 correctly. The "hook" of the tender must face the sky (look down in the drawing), not face the ground (look up in the drawing). Unfortunately I disassembled components 35, 37 and 63 because the instructions in step 38 led me into thinking that what I did previously was wrong. When I got to step 40 I realized that step 38 was not drawn correctly in the instructions.

Step 39: For painting the tracks you need, again, a thin brush, a steady hand and lost of patience for the 3 colors of paint to dry.

Step 40: Again, wrong! The "hook" of the tender must be looking upward (facing the sky), otherwise it's impossible to hook the tender up to the locomotive.

Step 41: Analyze the model carefully, paint over any small, overlooked, unpainted areas. When it's all dry, apply the decals. Actually, it's a good idea to apply the decals based on Step 41's instructions before step 40 (except the decals that need to be applied even earlier). Don't touch the decals too much, they may get damaged.

I was quite surprised to realize that the kit contained two components (10 and 101) that were actually not needed for the model. I have no idea why they included them.

Assemble patiently and carefully and you'll obtain a beautiful Big Boy steam locomotive. It's worth the time and energy!

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